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Chains

Chains sold on their own, to wear alone or to carry a pendant. Cable is the largest group, followed by box, Franco, curb and Miami Cuban, in yellow gold, sterling silver, white gold and rose gold. Two things decide the buy: gauge, because a fine chain sits closer to the skin but carries less weight safely, and clasp type, since a lobster clasp is easier to fasten one-handed than a spring ring. If you want the pendant included rather than separate, see pendants.

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Choosing a Chain: Link, Width and Metal

A chain is judged on three things, and only one of them is the metal. The link style sets its character. Cable chains, the most common style here, are simple round or oval links that suit pendants and layering. Box and Franco links are squarer and resist twisting. Miami Cuban and curb links are broad and lie flat. Snake, herringbone, rolo, Bismark and Singapore chains fill out the range.

Width matters more than most people expect. The chains here run from fine sub-millimeter cables to Miami Cubans around 9 mm wide. Under about 2 mm a chain usually serves as a layering piece or a pendant carrier, as long as its clasp passes through the pendant’s bail. Beyond that there is no single width at which a chain becomes the main piece: link style and length change how a given width reads, so compare the width on each listing with a chain you already own. Length is chosen from the options on each listing, usually between 16 and 24 inches, with a few longer. As a guide, 18 inches sits at the collarbone on most adults and 24 inches falls on the chest.

If you plan to hang a pendant from the chain, match the chain to the weight of what it carries rather than to the pendant's size. Some pendant listings give a weight in grams; where one does not, a box, Franco or heavier cable chain is the safer choice for a larger piece.

Construction decides how long a chain lasts. A solid chain is exactly that; a semi-solid one uses less gold for the same outward width and is more easily dented, and the listing says when a chain is semi-solid. Most chains here are 14K gold in yellow, white or rose, with 10K and a pair of 18K cable chains. The sterling silver chains are mostly rhodium plated, and a few are yellow gold plated, as the title states. If you are shopping by metal, our gold chains page gathers the gold pieces in one place.

What chain is best for a pendant?

A chain strong enough for the pendant's weight: fine cable chains suit light pendants, while box, Franco and heavier cable chains carry more weight without kinking.

What length should I buy?

18 inches sits at the collarbone on most adults, 20 to 22 inches just below it, and 24 inches on the chest. Length options are listed on each chain.

Is a heavier chain always better?

No. Weight tells you how much metal is present, which affects price and durability, but a thin solid chain usually outlasts a wide semi-solid one.

Further reading: How to Choose a Chain for a Pendant, Bails, Clasps & Safety Catches, 10K vs 14K vs 18K Gold, Jewelry Care Guide.

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