Quick answer: Care depends on two things at once: the metal and the stone. Most gold, platinum and steel pieces need only warm soapy water and a soft brush, plus a jeweler’s check now and then. Pearls, opal, turquoise, emerald and other treated or porous stones should never go in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. If a piece mixes a tough metal with a delicate stone, care for the stone.
Our Jewelry Care Guide covers everyday habits: last on, first off; remove before water and physical work; keep away from household chemicals. This guide goes one level deeper. It explains what actually changes in each metal over time, which stones tolerate which cleaning methods, and when a job belongs on a jeweler’s bench rather than your kitchen counter.
How does care change from one metal to another?
Yellow and rose gold: 10K, 14K and 18K
Karat tells you how much of the alloy is pure gold: 10K is 41.7%, 14K is 58.5% and 18K is 75%. The rest is other metals that add hardness and set the color. Rose gold gets its warm tone from copper in the alloy. In general, the higher the karat, the richer the color and the softer the metal, so 18K shows fine surface marks a little sooner than 14K or 10K. For more on that trade-off, see 10K vs 14K vs 18K gold.
Yellow and rose gold keep their color through the whole alloy, so there is no plating to wear away. Fine scratches are normal and a jeweler can polish them out. At home, a soak in warm water with a little mild dish soap and a soft brush is enough. Chlorine is the real enemy of gold alloys, so take pieces off before a pool or hot tub.
White gold and rhodium plating
Many white gold pieces are finished with rhodium, a bright white metal plated over the alloy. Where a product page says “rhodium-plated,” that plating is what gives the bright white surface. Plating is a thin layer, and on pieces that rub against skin or other jewelry it wears with time. The first sign is usually a faint warm tone on the high points of a ring shank or the back of a bail.
This is maintenance, not a defect. A jeweler can clean the piece and re-plate it, which restores the bright white finish. How often depends entirely on how the piece is worn: a pendant may go years, a daily ring sooner. Avoid abrasive polishing cloths and toothpaste on plated white gold, because they remove plating faster. Our guide to platinum vs white gold explains the difference in upkeep.
Platinum and its patina
Platinum is naturally white, so it never needs plating. It is dense and durable, but it still scratches. When it does, the metal tends to be pushed aside rather than worn away, and over months the surface takes on a soft, satin-like look called patina. Some people like that look; others prefer a high polish. Either is fine. A jeweler can re-polish platinum to a bright finish whenever you want it. At home, use the same warm soapy water and soft brush as gold.
Sterling silver and tarnish
Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, usually alloyed with copper. It darkens through a normal reaction with sulfur compounds in the air, skin and some foods. Tarnish is surface-level and reversible: a dedicated silver polishing cloth removes light tarnish, and wearing silver often actually slows it down. Store silver in a closed, dry place, ideally with an anti-tarnish strip.
Some sterling pieces are rhodium-plated, which slows tarnish while the plating lasts. On these, use a soft cloth rather than an abrasive silver cloth, and never use a silver dip on a piece set with stones.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel resists tarnish and corrosion and needs the least care of any metal here. Wash it with mild soap and water, dry it, and buff with a soft cloth. It is harder than gold or silver, which makes resizing and some repairs more difficult, so it is usually chosen for pieces like ID bracelets that are meant to be worn hard.
Metal care at a glance
| Metal | What changes with wear | Home care | Jeweler care |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10K, 14K, 18K yellow or rose gold | Fine surface scratches; higher karat marks a little sooner | Warm soapy water, soft brush, lint-free cloth | Polishing; prong and clasp checks |
| White gold, rhodium-plated | Plating wears on high-contact areas, showing a warm tone | Warm soapy water; no abrasives or toothpaste | Cleaning and rhodium re-plating |
| Platinum | Develops a soft satin patina | Warm soapy water, soft brush | Re-polishing if you prefer a bright finish |
| Sterling silver | Tarnishes (darkens) over time | Silver cloth on unplated silver; soft cloth on plated; closed dry storage | Professional cleaning for heavy tarnish |
| Stainless steel | Very little; light scuffs | Mild soap and water, dry, buff | Rarely needed |
Which stones need extra caution?
Stones vary far more than metals. Hardness matters, but so do treatments, porosity and sensitivity to heat. The table below draws on GIA’s guidance on gems and ultrasonic cleaners and on the care and treatment notes our product pages carry for each stone. Where a stone has been treated, the treatment usually decides the care.
| Stone | What to know | Ultrasonic | Steam | Safe home method |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Diamond, natural or lab-grown | Hardest gem material, but can chip on a hard knock; attracts grease | Generally acceptable for untreated diamonds; avoid for fracture-filled stones | Not recommended at home | Warm soapy water and a soft brush, front and back |
| Sapphire and ruby (heated) | Very hard; heat treatment is common | Use caution; never for star stones | Ask a jeweler | Warm soapy water, soft brush |
| Lab-grown ruby and sapphire | Same chemistry as the natural stone | Use caution; ask a jeweler if unsure | Ask a jeweler | Warm soapy water, soft brush |
| Cultured pearl | Organic, soft; nacre is damaged by acids, chemicals and heat | Never | Never | Wipe with a soft cloth after each wear |
| Emerald (natural) | Most are clarity-enhanced with oil or resin | Never | Never | Warm soapy water, soft brush, no soaking |
| Opal | Heat- and moisture-sensitive; can crack or craze | Never | Never | Warm soapy water, soft brush |
| Turquoise (stabilized) | Porous; usually stabilized by impregnation | Never | Never | Damp cloth, then dry immediately |
| Moss agate | Natural chalcedony; tougher than opal or turquoise | Not recommended at home | Not recommended at home | Warm soapy water, soft brush, let dry |
| Enamel | Fired glass fused to metal; can chip on impact | Not recommended | Not recommended | Soft damp cloth, no abrasives |
A note on treatments: our product pages state each stone’s treatment as recorded by the manufacturer, such as “heated to enhance colour,” “clarity enhanced with oil or resin,” “bleached to enhance colour” or “stabilized by impregnation.” Read that line before you clean. A stone labeled lab-grown has the same chemistry as its natural counterpart, but that does not make every setting or treatment ultrasonic-safe.
Is an ultrasonic or steam cleaner safe for my piece?
Ultrasonic cleaners use high-frequency vibration in a liquid bath. They are effective on grime, but the vibration can loosen stones in their settings and can damage fillings, coatings and porous materials. GIA advises checking that stones are secure before and after ultrasonic cleaning, and its diamond care guide treats ultrasonic and steam cleaning as harsher methods that are not recommended for home use.
Steam adds heat and pressure. That can draw oil or resin out of fractures in emerald, shock heat-sensitive stones such as opal, and damage pearls. GIA groups pearls with other organic materials that should not go in an ultrasonic cleaner, and heat from steam is just as risky for nacre.
A simple rule covers almost every case: if you are not certain a piece is safe, do not use either machine. Warm soapy water and a soft brush are safe for every material on this page except where the table says a damp cloth only.
How should I store pieces made of different materials?
- Keep every piece separate. A diamond will scratch any other material, and harder stones scratch softer metals and pearls.
- Fasten chains before storing them so they do not knot, and lay longer chains flat or hang them.
- Keep pearls apart from harder jewelry, and put them on last when you dress.
- Store sterling silver in a closed, dry place; an anti-tarnish strip helps.
- Keep opal, turquoise and pearls away from heat sources and direct sun.
- Store earrings as pairs, with their backs fitted, so neither goes missing.
What should I check at home, and how often?
A quick look under good light catches most problems before they become losses. GIA suggests having the prongs on a daily-wear ring checked about every six months, and it is a sensible rhythm for any piece worn often.
- Gently push each set stone with a fingertip. If it moves, stop wearing it and see a jeweler.
- Look for gaps between a stone and its prongs or bezel, and for prongs that catch on fabric.
- Open and close each clasp. It should snap shut firmly and stay closed when you tug the chain.
- Check where a bail or jump ring meets the chain. A ring with a visible gap, or a bail worn thin, needs attention.
- Make sure earring backs still grip the post firmly.
When should I see a jeweler?
Some jobs need a bench and the right tools. See a jeweler when a stone moves or a prong is bent, snagging or worn flat; when rhodium-plated white gold starts to look warm in tone; when a clasp no longer locks or a jump ring has opened; when platinum or gold has deeper scratches you want polished out; and before cleaning any treated, porous or organic stone you are unsure about. A jeweler can also clean pieces professionally with equipment matched to the stone.
At IMPERVORA
A few pieces in our collection show how product pages state the details that matter for care:
- 14K White Gold 1/3 ct. Lab-Grown Diamond Pendant: the listing names the metal as 14K white gold, rhodium-plated, so plan on occasional re-plating as it wears.
- 14K Gold Cultured White Akoya Pearl Solitaire Charm/Pendant, 6 mm: the stone disclosure states the pearl is bleached to enhance color, with the care note to wipe it clean after each wear with a soft dry or damp cloth.
- 14K Yellow Gold Gemstone Cabochon Charm/Pendant: offered with natural chrysoprase, natural white opal or natural turquoise. The turquoise option is listed as stabilized by impregnation, with a note to avoid heat, chemicals and ultrasonic cleaning.
- Platinum Comfort-Fit Half Round Wedding Band, a solid platinum band that will develop the patina described above with daily wear.
- Personalized Stainless Steel ID Bracelet, Engraved Name up to 8 Characters, 8 in, for a low-maintenance everyday piece.
- 14K Yellow Gold Natural Moss Agate Bezel-Set Cabochon Charm/Pendant, whose care note is to scrub gently with a soft brush and warm soapy water, then let it dry.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use toothpaste or baking soda to clean jewelry?
No. Both are abrasive. They scratch gold and platinum and wear away rhodium plating faster. Use warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap and a soft brush instead.
Does lab-grown diamond jewelry need different care from natural diamond jewelry?
The stone itself cares for the same way: warm soapy water and a soft brush, front and back. What matters more is the setting and metal. Check prongs regularly, and treat rhodium-plated white gold as described above.
Why does my white gold look slightly yellow?
On rhodium-plated white gold, the plating wears with contact and the warmer alloy underneath begins to show. A jeweler can clean and re-plate it. It is normal maintenance, not a defect.
Is it safe to put pearls or opal in an ultrasonic cleaner?
No. GIA lists pearls and opal among materials that should never be cleaned ultrasonically, and pearls should never be steamed. Wipe pearls after each wear and clean opal with warm soapy water and a soft brush.
Next step
Browse our charms collection, where every stone-set piece carries its own stone, treatment and care note. If you are unsure how to clean a particular piece, ask our Concierge. We reply within one business day.
